Troon Marina Thursday 2010-08-19

The last day of the trip. The 3 weeks has gone fast but this is nothing we have felt. It has been so relaxing and a perfect combination of blue water sailing, cruising in a canal and some tourism. The day is spent with cleaning the boat, some laundry and refilling the boat with supplies and spare parts.
Everybody in the team is satisfied with the trip and the opportunity to share our experiences with our friends thru this blog. Tomorrow we fly back to Gothenburg.

Bye bye from Mats, Unni, Jan and Mattias.

Firth of Clyde Wednesday 2010-08-18

55° 32,7´N 4°40,6´W 12:10 GMT

The pier of Troon Marina is in front of us. Finally we have reached our destination. We had planned to stop at Isle of Arran for a “day off” with some swimming and relaxing but the weather was against us. The marina has excellent facilities with chandlers, workshop etc close by.

North Channel Wednesday 2010-08-18

55° 23,0´N 5°05,0´W 08:15 GMT

The planned timing for this leg was excellent. We got help from the stream with about 2,5 knots. Unfortunately the nice weather disappeared and it started to rain. Wind is shifting and we need to constantly change our course. On the right there is a “funny” island, Ailsa Craig. It looks like a cake in the middle of the sea.

North of Northern Ireland Tuesday 2010-08-17

Again we schedule our departure after the tides. The ingoing stream starts at midnight and we want to catch it when we pass Mull of Kintyre. Dinner and we leave at 20:30. Wind from behind, force 3-4 and nice weather. It seems to be a really good sailing during the night. We have marked 3 waypoints around Mull of Kintyre to stay as far away from land but not being in the Inshore Traffic Zone.

Port Ellen, Islay Tuesday 2010-08-17

We plan to visit Lagavulin but they have closed down the tours so we go back to Laphroaig instead. An excellent tour and then some tasting. I took the blended quarter cask selection and my other friends choosed the 18 year selection, which was very distinguished.

Port Ellen, Islay Tuesday 2010-08-17

When you are on Islay, distillery visit is a must. There are 3 distilleries just outside Port Ellen, only 2 miles away. The sky is blue and it´s a perfect day for a walk.

Port Ellen, Islay Monday 2010-08-16

53° 37,3´N 6°11,3´W 18:45 GMT
Rain all afternoon. Wind direction is constantly changing but Jan and Unni manage this good. We go inside the buoy at Otter Rock and steer towards the lighthouse Carraig Fhada, turn right at the starboard buoy and enter the harbor. It´s raining when we moor at an empty berth. Tomorrow plans area visit to Lagavulin Distillery. We go to bed and it´s still raining.

10 nm SE Sound of Islay Monday 2010-08-16

55° 44,3´N 5°57,7´W 14:10 GMT
Unni and Jan are on deck. Suddenly a BIG dolphin (?) shows up. Or is it a small whale? He (she) is around 4 meters, has the smooth shape of a dolphin but colored black and white. A small triangular fin on the back and 2 white ones at the sides. Must check it on internet! He (she) follows us for 3 hours.

Sound of Jura Monday 2010-08-16

55° 53,2´N 5°45,1´W 11:05 GMT
This morning starts with a bath for Unni, we other stay in bed. Looks to cold. Breakfast at anchor and we leave at 09:10. We go by engine out of Loch Sween. The sky is grey but so far no rain. We pass Eilean Mór and the rest of MacCormaig Islands and hoist the sails. Wind is from south to south west, just in our planned sailing direction (as usual). Around 6-8 knots. At least we get the support from the south-going tidal streams.

Loch Sween Sunday 2010-08-15

56° 01,3´N 5°38,9´W 18:00 GMT
The afternoon is spent on deck lying in the sun. A slight breeze makes it not to hot. Just relaxing, reading and nothing else. Some of us take a bath. Later we get company by two other boats.

Loch Sween Sunday 2010-08-15

56° 01,3´N 5°38,9´W 14:40 GMT
A narrow entrance to Loch Sween and we are inside the bay. An old castle ruin is passed and after 5 nm we find a nice and well protected bay outside Tayvallish, Loch a Bhealaich. Time for lunch.

Sound of Corryvrecken Sunday 2010-08-15

56° 09,4´N 5°38,4´W 11:30 GMT
This sound should be avoided. The “Great Race” extends more than 5 nm outside. We take a safe course as far away as possible. In the binocular we can see the whirlpools outside, just like the sea is braking over reefs.
It difficult to steer the course we want. The difference between heading and COG (Course over Ground) is sometimes 30-40 degrees. My respect for the sea has increased 300%. After 15 minutes we´re out of this area and have a quite comfortable ride. The wind is still gone and we proceed by engine.

Sound of Scarpa Sunday 2010-08-15

56° 13,7´N 5°40,4´W 10:40 GMT
The sea is boiling. There are small whirlpools all around us. You see the streams and between these there are calm areas where the water level is 10 cm higher! We zigzag between the shallow parts of the sound to have a “calm” ride. When you check the speedometer it shows 4 knots but the SOG (Speed over Ground) is 8,5 knots. A new experience with a tidal stream of 4,5 knots. Lucky we checked first!

Kerrera Sound Sunday 2010-08-15

56° 22,5´N 5°32,4´W 8:45 GMT
The tidal streams dictate our wake-up. The mobile alarm sounds at 7:00 but Jan is already awake. The rest of us goes up, takes a shower and prepare for take-off. The next night will be at anchor with only the sea as facilities. A lot of crews are awake and it must be the tidal almanac which controls our lives.
We want to catch the south going streams starting around 08:00 in Sound of Luing and Sound of Jura. The north going stream starts at 14:00 and at that time we should be south. Later we will find out the reality.

Oban Saturday 2010-08-14

56° 25,1´N 5°29,8´W 12:00 GMT

We arrive to the marina in Ardantrive Bay, Kerrera at lunch time. Found a berth easily and then the check-in. They have a boat going every hour to Oban and we took the one at 13:00. Looking forward to a day in the city.
First stop is the distillery of course! A guided tour with some test drinks and some purchasing. A short walk around and then a coffee break. Before we go back to the marina we buy food for the next-coming days.

Firth of Lorne Saturday 2010-08-14

We got a late company by another yacht last evening. It´s amazing to see the differences between ebb and flood. 4 meters is a lot. The wind increased during the night but in the morning it was gone. The water surface is like a mirror. After a nice breakfast we go by engine towards Oban. No use sailing with a maximum wind speed of 2 knots. Lying on the deck in the sun is OK anyhow.

Loch Linnhe Friday 2010-08-13

56° 31,6´N 5°24,1´W 16:30 GMT

The planned anchor at the west part of Loch Linnhe was not good. Strong winds from the mountains are falling down into the bay. We proceed across to the east part and Loch Creran. A narrow entrance and then we are sheltered. Anchor in a very protected bay at 10 meters depth. Time for a siesta in the afternoon.

Loch Linnhe Friday 2010-08-13

56° 43,1´N 5°14,7´W 13:30 GMT

Passing the sound of Corran Narrows. The water surface outside looks like it´s boiling and you feel the streams catching the boat and swings it. It stays for around 15 minutes and then we´re out in Loch Linnhe. Now it´s only 9 nm left to the bay we´re we going to anchor for the night.

Fort Williams 2010-08-13

We exit 11:20 and now we are in salt water again. A short mooring just outside the locks so we can go shopping some food and beverage. First we are thinking of having lunch berthed but looking into Reeds, there is a small sound with quite strong streams. Up to 5 knots. A short calculation and we leave immediately. We can then catch the south-going stream through the narrow sound before its ebb and the direction turns 180 degrees. Do not want to have 5 knots against me!

Corpach sea lock 2010-08-13

We discuss with the lock keeper when it´s appropriate to go out. The locks can´t open +/- 2 hours from low water. We stop before the lock, fill up fresh water and goes into the last loch chamber this time. It has been a real pleasure with only friendly people and marvelous scenarios. Just one day with rain is also good enough in Scotland.

Neptune´ Staircases 2010-08-13

The lock keeper comes to the boat in the morning and tells us that he will open the gates within 5-10 minutes. It´s a 8 chamber stair downwards and we are alone. Within 1 hour we pass the locks and the 2 swing bridges and enter the Corpach Basin. As usual the friendly lock keeper has called the sea lock and prepare them for our arrival.

Loch Lochy and Banavie 2010-08-12

At 15:30 we pass the Laggan lock and go out in the last lake before the sea, Loch Lochy. We speed up a bit to be able to go all the way down to Banavie, the last berth in the canal. We got some help from the lock keepers and swing bridge operators. They call downstream when we pass and everything is ready when we come. We arrive to the pontoons at Banavie at six. Jan and Unni go for a walk to try to find a supermarket. The red wine is gone and all of us are looking forward to a barbeque. An hour later they call back and it´s time to prepare everything. Grilled chicken & steak, garlic butter with sundried tomatoes, aioli, fried potatoes and mozzarella & tomato salad. And of course some red wine. Dessert is cream crackers with cheddar and gorgonzola (and some more red wine).

Loch Oich 2010-08-12

The most beautiful part of the canal. It´s also the highest point and from now on it´s only downwards. We cruise in a lake system with clear water, a lot of trees surrounded by marvelous slopes. At the end of the lake a swing bridge opens for us and we enter another section of the canal leading to Laggan.

Kytra and Cullochy Locks 2010-08-12

30 minutes later we arrive to Kytra and they are waiting for us. The lock keeper informs us that we have to wait in Culloch due to lunch hour. At 13:30 we go through the lock and enter Loch Oich.

Fort Augustus 2010-08-12

An early start with a shower to be able to go into the lock chamber directly at 8:00. Nothing happens so we call the lock keeper by VHF. Unfortunately they start up-streams and go down. 9:30 is the estimated time for us. It´s a 5 chamber stair and it takes 1 hour to go through. We get company with 3 canal cruisers and another sailing yacht.

Fort Augustus 2010-08-11

After the dinner we go the local pub, the “Lock Inn”. Funny name but if you think quite natural when you have a pub 10 meters from the lock. Had a pint of a local beer and listen to a guy playing guitar and singing Scottish songs. Nice end of a rainy day.

Fort Augustus 2010-08-11

We arrive to the entrance at 16:00. A lot of boats is lying at the pontoons. We call the lock keeper by VHF and unfortunately the last “trip” upwards the lock stair has already started. Next one is tomorrow morning at 08:00. Nothing to bother about. We berth outside another boat and take a short walk.

Urquhart castle 2010-08-11

We move the boat closer to the castle´s pier. We´re not allowed berthing there, only for charter boats. We anchor close to another boat and launch the dinghy. Even though the dinghy carries the weight we decide to go 2 times. The Urquhart Castle is a tourist attraction. A lot of different languages sounding in the rain. .It must have been an impressive building before it was RIVA down. After a coffee we go back to the boat and steer towards Fort Augustus.

Urquhart castle 2010-08-11

Our female crew member “forces” us to take a swim in Loch Ness. Maybe she is using us as bait. Don´t think that we are attractive enough. Standing in the rain preparing for a dive is not fun. It´s f-g cold. The second one is better and suddenly you feel fresh, clean and very very healthy.

Loch Ness 2010-08-10 20:30

We anchor in the bay. The depth in the harbor is to narrow. A lot of canoes are berthed on the shore with tents put up. We fill up our new dinghy. We´re planning to use it to visit a castle ruin. Later this evening the coast guard arrives. The guys on land miss 3 friends who left their camp.

Loch Ness 2010-08-10 16:30

After passing through Dochgarroch Lock and Loch Dochfour we enter Loch Ness from north east. I and Jan spend an hour on sorting out a blockage at the toilet tank. Hope it works. Now it´s just a couple of nautical miles until we reach the bay outside Drumnadrochit, our next night.

Tomnahurich Bridge 2010-08-10 14:00

We arrive 15 minutes before the bridge is scheduled to open and decide to moor at the jetty. After half an hour nothing happens and we hear from the neighbors that there are some problems with the bridge. Just sit down, have a bear and relax.

Inverness Calley Marina 2010-08-10 11:30

After the looks we have a short stop at Calley Marina. It´s plenty of time because there is some opening restrictions at the next bridge. There is chandler at the marina and we use the opportunity to replace the broken winch handle and a link for the windlass and anchor swivels.

Inverness Muirtown Locks 2010-08-10 10:30

Weather looks better. We check out from the marina and fill up diesel and fresh water. We call the look by the VHF and they are ready within 15 minutes. The look keeper from the sea lock at Clachnaharry sees us and wishes us a good journey. He has some days off now. The swing bridge open and we are getting into the first chamber. It´s quite surprising that there are not so many boats, we are alone in this small lock stair.

Inverness Monday 2010-08-09

Wakes up with rain patters on the boat. We´re in Scotland so no surprises. English breakfast again, this time also with Cumberland sausages.
We have spent the day sightseeing in Inverness. Some shopping and just relaxing. The city is not so big, actually quite ordinary and after a couple of hours we went back to the boat. On the way back we found a kilt factory visitors centre. Bought some nice presents to my daughters.
Siesta time and then planning for the forthcoming days on Loch Ness.

Inverness Sunday 2010-08-08

The Seaport Marina the Muirtown basin was far better than the other one. Close to supermarkets, laundry facilities etc. This gives us an opportunity to clean the boat, do some laundry and having a nice barbecue.
Time to go to bed. Good night friends!

Inverness Sunday 2010-08-08

The lock master was really helpful, explained a lot about the facilities. We paid the fees and proceeded towards the next swing bridge and lock. There we met a Swedish couple who has been out sailing for 3 years and is now heading for Sweden.

Inverness Sunday 2010-08-08

Why not start with an English breakfast when you´re in UK? Bacon, scrambled eggs, coffee, sandwiches and juice. This is the best this marina can offer. Located in an industrial area, beautiful view toward the sea but that is everything. The decision to move further ahead was not difficult. We get company with the Dutch yacht “Archimedes” towards the sea lock. They were pro-active and called the lock before us so they are number one to go in.
We also got the first sense of Scottish humor hearing the conversation with the lock and the Dutch captain when they did not enter. “Please put your fenders on the starboard side…”and “what is your problem, I told you enter”.

Inverness Saturday 2010-08-07

When you´re on a boat that’s going up and down in the sea you get some peculiar behaviors’. When you get up from the toilet you immediately try to find something to grab not hurt yourself or fall.
A shower after 6 days at sea it´s like going to heaven. But the reflexes are still there. It must have been quite funny to see one of the crew members, I will not mention her name, going to the ladies room and desperately grabbing a hold on the wall to be steady.

Forties / Cromarty Saturday 2010-08-07

57° 34,4´N 4°05,12´W 18:00 GMT

Passing Fort George at the entrance to Firth of Inverness. Gets company with a beautiful English ketch on our way to Inverness. The sea lock to the Caledonian Canal is closed so we have to stop at an awful marina in an industrial part of Inverness. The berth is ok but the other facilities are not so good. We move tomorrow to a marina inside the sea looks and spend a couple of days in Inverness.

Forties / Cromarty Saturday 2010-08-07

57° 46,7´N 3°16,1´W 13:00 GMT

Wind is slowly moving away again. We were doing 6-7 knots and now it´s gone. Check the watches and the remaining distance. After an hour we decide to start the engine a do the last part without sailing. I do not want to miss the “tidal window” and heading a 3-4 kn tidal stream!

Forties / Cromarty Saturday 2010-08-07

57° 49,6´N 2°36,8´W 08:30 GMT

To gain some more height on the course, I tighten the mainsail sheet. No problem. When I do the same with the foresail, it ends up in a crash. Broken handle and stuck in the winch body. Lucky that this didn´t happened on open water. Tried with some tools, some minor violence, it´s still there. Try to dismantle the winch. Didn´t help. Some more violence and out it comes. PUH!

Forties / Cromarty Saturday 2010-08-07

57° 49,6´N 2°36,8´W 08:30 GMT

LAND IN SIGHT! After 5 days at sea we see the Scottish coast line south of us. It´s always a unique feeling when you come to a coast for the first time. After a short breakfast it´s time to predict the arrival to Inverness. We have a slot from 18:00 and 5 hours and I think we will do it.

Forties / Cromarty Saturday 2010-08-07

57° 53,0´N 1°33,5´W 01:50 GMT

It has been a wet start of the night for Jan and Unni. When it´s my time to steer the rain disappeared. Lucky me. Before Unni goes to bed she helps me with hoisting the main sail again. Wind is more or less gone. After a while I decide to start the engine. No use of doing 1 kn. The wind will come back and after two hours it´s the. This time from the opposite direction (getting used to this). Perfect morning with a clause hauled starboard tack doing 7 kn.

Forties Friday 2010-08-06

57° 44,9´N 0°40,9´W 20:10 GMT

This day has been the best sailing day so far. Good winds from the preferable directions. It has steadily increased and we decide to take in 2 reefs in the main sail to have a more comfortable night.

Forties Friday 2010-08-06

57° 42,7´N 0°03,7´E 16:20 GMT

Very soon we pass the meridian 0° of Greenwich. Start to plan with the tidal streams and the passage through Firth of Inverness. I´m not used to do this calculation, although there were HW/LW and tidal streams in the Netherlands. With the use of Reeds Nautical Almanac I hope it will be OK.

Forties Friday 2010-08-06

57° 34,7´N 1°27,7´E 10:20 CET

The first flames from the oil fields have been visible during the night. Now in daylight you see the platforms everywhere. It ´s like giant slalom. The wind has shifted again and is now coming from the south with 12-16kn. At last some favorable wind direction which gives some speed. Heading westwards towards the entrance of Inverness; Moray Firth. Company again with the dolphins.

Forties Friday 2010-08-06

57° 17,4´N 2°35,0´E 01:35 CET

During the night the wind has turned a little and we are getting a little bit too much southwards. We shift to port tack and heading north west to find a way through the oil fields.

Fisher/Forties Thursday 2010-08-05

57° 29,8´N 3°38,9´E 18:00 CET
First meeting with a sailing boat on the North sea. Passing a couple of nautical miles north of us.

57° 29,0´N 3°23,9´E 19:30 CET
The wind from south west has gone and we are going in circles. Time for dinner all together in the saloon; Fried fresh fish (“Makrill”), potatoes, lime sauce and of course a bottle of wine. Penfold´s Chardonnay. After a couple of hours the wind is slowly increasing. This time from north west.